Description
If we are going to talk seriously about “natural” wines, then we will have to include Mas de Gourgonnier in the conversation. Back in the 1970s, this family estate, located in the heart of Provence, was one of the first officially certified organic wineries. Back then such an idea was seen as fiscally foolish for winegrowers if they actually wanted to make a living. However, Mas de Gourgonnier’s organic roots go back even further. Since the eighteenth century, the Cartier family has worked in these fields, providing the local abbey with freshly grown fruits, vegetables and grain; it wasn’t until the 1950s that they planted their first grape vines; the rest is history. The estate vineyards are a mini paradise, surrounded by pine trees and garrigue in the commune of Mouriès—just south of the granite Alpilles Mountains. The savory aromas of flowering rosemary, wild sage and juniper, and the freshness of the cooling mistral winds are all echoed in the Mas de Gourgonnier wines. The soil there is a mix of decomposed granite and limestone, and is very rocky and dry. The estate makes its own compost from cow and sheep manure, and plows between vineyard rows; they also plant beneficial herbs to control pests and moderate vine growth. Mas de Gourgonnier doesn’t have to sell a natural philosophy; it’s simply who they are—who they’ve always been. The focus on purity and flavor remains true today, under the winemaking of Luc Cartier and his daughter, Eve. A blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon; the grapes were harvested by hand. The grapes were destemmed, lightly crushed, then macerated for eight to 12 hours. The must was pressed (rosé de pressurage) then fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks. Aged in tank. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Luminous orange-pink color, with aromas of pomegranate, peach, citrus, and wildflowers. On the palate, it offers a balance of mineral-tinged, tangy red berry fruit and blood orange with notes of honeysuckle and tarragon, leading to a smooth, lingering finish with hints of white pepper.