Once more famous than Barolo, the Alto Piemonte faded into obscurity in the 1900s, its cooler climate failing to deliver wines that satisfied Twentieth Century palates. But with increasingly warm summers, great terroirs and many surviving old Nebbiolo vines, the Alto Piemonte has been poised for a renaissance. All it needed was a visionary to carry it into the future. That visionary turned out to be Roberto Conterno. In 2018, Roberto bought the region’s most iconic estate, Nervi, founded in Gattinara in 1906. As he does with Giacomo Conterno, Roberto has poured everything he has into making Nervi the equal of any of Barolo’s great estates. The excitement continues to build with the 2016s, from a potentially monumental vintage here, as it is in Barolo.While we wait for Roberto’s single-vineyard 2016s to be released next year, our first glimpse of 2016’s stature will be his flagship Gattinara, much of whose long aging in botti was personally overseen by him. Crafted from Nervi’s four great Gattinara crus—Molsino, Valferana, Garavoglie and Cassace—the final blend for this wine is where Roberto’s spare-no-expense commitment to making the greatest wine possible is most evident.