Lafarge is one of the great names in Volnay, some would say the greatest. His wines are sought out the world over, and we are always excited when our allocation arrives. Lafarge’s home territory is Volnay, though he also has holdings in nearby Beaune and Meursault. This is an old estate that started bottling their wines in the early 1900s. Only Armand Rousseau, the DRC, and maybe two or three other growers have that kind of history. The wines of Lafarge are magical. Despite being made in a decidedly old-school style—really no different than a generation or even two ago—they display incredible purity and not a hint of rusticity. A pure bouquet with red cherries, crushed strawberry and rose petals, just a light touch of vanilla pod emerging with aeration. The palate is very mineral-driven thanks to the gravel-strewn soils that seem to govern the personality of this Beaune. A dash of black pepper enlivens the grippy finish.