A Manhattan-based Master Sommelier tastes some Washington State wines and is so inspired, he sells everything to move across the country to make his own. That’s the start of the story of Gramercy Cellars, where a close eye on the grapes (picked for almost-peak ripeness, mostly organic), matched with minimalist wine making techniques (no or little new oak, no additives) and a lot of time (extended aging) has created wine that’s considered some of the best that Washington offers. Syrah has long been the star at Gramercy but the 2017 Gramercy Cellars Lower East Syrah Columbia Valley is the winery’s offering in its entry level Lower East series. It’s shocking good, especially considering the price, with aromas and flavors of smoked meat, pepper, and herbs that show purity and persistence. Time to give Syrah a chance.